Friday, April 16, 2010

Repair your plumbing valve

Because is plumbing valve normally open, then in order to avoid leakage, seal must be sufficiently tightly packed. If you found a leak, tighten the compression nut slightly to seal the stuffing. If the nut is wrapped all the way, and compression gland packing does not work, have to add padding. You do not need to override the water in the pipe before the valve. It is only to observe certain precautions.

Tighten the flywheel until it stops. Open the valve and check valve closure. Holding the flywheel in place, fully unscrew the cap nut. Remove the flywheel, leaving a fixed stock. Remove the cap nut and remove the sleeve seal. In the gap between the shell and put the rod seal. Entwine their stock and rammed a screwdriver. Do not forget that the gap still has to fit sleeve, so that the nut could grab a few threads of threads Corps.

Analyzing the valve, remember that you can not remove the sleeve, if water is not blocked, otherwise the water pressure in the valve can squeeze seal, and the water hit through the gap.

When fully twisted rod water continues to flow through the valve (the valve does not hold water). Several times the open-close valve. Caught between a saddle and pad particles must leave the water. If the valve is still holding back the water will have to dismantle. To do this, close the valve to enter the apartment, or the valve on the risers, if the breakdown in it.

Decomposing the iron gate to help heat the head with a blowtorch or gas burner. If your apartment has cast iron valves, stock up well in advance of a new head shell assembly with a rod, because after several years of operation of a steel rod is usually fused, rusting, cast-iron head case. A durable cast iron valves with brass rods.

The valve has a "floating" landing on the rod with ball joint. The defect can be partial destruction of the wall reducing mechanism valve Such failure requires replacement of the valve stem.